Anthurium
Anthurium andraeanum

Quick Facts
Bright Indirect
Moderate (Allow top inch to dry between waterings)
Moderate
Moderate
Toxic to Pets and Humans
Overview
The Anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum), commonly known as the Flamingo Flower or Painter's Palette, is a striking tropical plant celebrated for its glossy, heart-shaped blooms and lush foliage. Native to the tropical rainforests of Colombia and Ecuador, this member of the Araceae family has become a popular houseplant due to its long-lasting flowers and relatively straightforward care requirements.
What many people refer to as the Anthurium's "flower" is actually a combination of two specialized structures: the spadix, a spike-like inflorescence containing tiny true flowers, and the spathe, a modified, waxy leaf that can be red, pink, white, purple, or even green. This distinctive spathe is what gives the plant its ornamental value, often lasting for several weeks to months before gradually fading.
Beyond its showy blooms, the Anthurium features attractive, dark green, heart-shaped leaves with a glossy, leathery texture. In its natural habitat, Anthuriums are epiphytic, growing on other plants rather than in soil, with aerial roots that absorb moisture and nutrients from the air and surrounding debris.
Anthuriums have gained popularity not only for their exotic appearance but also for their air-purifying qualities. NASA's Clean Air Study identified Anthuriums as effective at removing formaldehyde, xylene, toluene, and ammonia from indoor environments, making them both beautiful and beneficial additions to homes and offices.
While Anthuriums contain calcium oxalate crystals that are toxic if ingested, making them unsuitable for homes with curious pets or children, their striking appearance and ability to bloom year-round under proper conditions have earned them a place among the most sought-after flowering houseplants.
Care Guide
Light Requirements
Anthuriums need adequate light to thrive and produce their characteristic blooms:
- Bright indirect light: Ideal for healthy growth and abundant flowering
- Medium light: Will survive but produce fewer flowers
- Direct sunlight: Avoid as it can scorch the leaves and flowers
- Low light: Not recommended as it leads to leggy growth and few, if any, blooms
For optimal growth and flowering, place your Anthurium near an east or north-facing window where it will receive bright, filtered light throughout the day. If placed near a south or west-facing window, ensure the plant is positioned a few feet away from the window or protected by a sheer curtain to filter the intense direct sunlight.
The light requirements of Anthuriums are closely tied to their flowering cycle. Insufficient light is the most common reason for lack of blooms in otherwise healthy plants. If your Anthurium isn't flowering, gradually increasing its light exposure (while still avoiding direct sun) may encourage blooming.
During winter months when light levels naturally decrease, you may need to relocate your Anthurium to the brightest spot available in your home. If adequate natural light is unavailable, supplemental grow lights can help maintain healthy growth and flowering during darker months.
Watering
Proper watering is crucial for Anthuriums, as they require a balance between consistent moisture and good drainage:
Watering Schedule:
- Allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings
- Typically water once every 5-7 days in summer
- Reduce to once every 10-14 days in winter
- Adjust based on your home's conditions—humidity, temperature, pot size, and light levels all affect water needs
Watering Technique:
- Water thoroughly until it flows from the drainage holes
- Empty the saucer to prevent the plant from sitting in water
- Water the soil directly, avoiding wetting the leaves and flowers
- Use room temperature water to avoid shocking the roots
Water Quality:
- Anthuriums can be sensitive to chemicals in tap water
- If possible, use rainwater, distilled water, or filtered water
- If using tap water, let it sit out overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate
Anthuriums communicate their watering needs through their leaves. Drooping or wilting indicates underwatering, while yellowing leaves often signal overwatering. The plant prefers to dry out slightly between waterings but should never be allowed to dry out completely.
As epiphytes in their natural habitat, Anthuriums are more susceptible to overwatering than underwatering. When in doubt, it's better to wait another day before watering. During winter dormancy, the plant's water needs decrease significantly, so be especially careful not to overwater during this period.
Soil
Anthuriums require well-draining, airy soil that mimics their natural epiphytic growing conditions:
Ideal Soil Mix:
- 1 part orchid mix or orchid bark
- 1 part peat moss or coco coir
- 1 part perlite or pumice
- Optional: Add a small handful of charcoal to keep the soil fresh
This combination creates a light, chunky mix that allows air to reach the roots while still retaining some moisture. Commercial orchid mixes or aroid mixes can also work well for Anthuriums when amended with additional perlite for improved drainage.
Container Considerations:
- Always use pots with drainage holes
- Plastic or glazed ceramic pots retain moisture better than terracotta
- Choose a pot that's only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one when repotting
- Consider the mature size when selecting a container—most Anthuriums stay relatively compact
Repot your Anthurium every 2-3 years, or when it becomes root-bound. The best time to repot is in spring during the active growing season. When repotting, handle the root ball gently and position the plant at the same depth it was previously growing. After repotting, water thoroughly and place in bright, indirect light, avoiding fertilizing for about a month to allow the plant to adjust to its new container.
Temperature & Humidity
As tropical plants, Anthuriums have specific temperature and humidity requirements:
Temperature:
- Ideal range: 70-85°F (21-29°C)
- Minimum temperature: 60°F (15°C)
- Will suffer damage below 55°F (13°C)
- Avoid sudden temperature fluctuations
- Keep away from cold drafts, heating vents, and air conditioners
Humidity:
- Prefers high humidity (60-80%)
- Will struggle in dry environments below 40% humidity
- Increase humidity through these methods:
- Use a humidifier near the plant (most effective method)
- Place on a humidity tray (pebble tray with water)
- Group with other plants to create a microclimate
- Mist leaves occasionally, though this provides only temporary relief
Humidity is particularly crucial for Anthuriums. In low humidity, leaves may develop brown edges and tips, and the plant becomes more susceptible to spider mites. If you notice these signs, take immediate steps to increase humidity around your plant.
While Anthuriums can adapt to normal household temperatures, they're sensitive to cold drafts and sudden temperature changes. During winter, be especially mindful of keeping them away from cold windows and doors. Similarly, avoid placing them near heating vents, which can create hot, dry conditions that stress the plant.
Fertilizing
Anthuriums benefit from regular but moderate fertilization to support healthy growth and flowering:
Fertilizing Schedule:
- Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter to one-half the recommended strength
- Fertilize once a month during spring and summer (active growth period)
- Reduce to once every 2-3 months in fall and winter
- Resume regular fertilizing in spring when new growth appears
Fertilizing Tips:
- Use a fertilizer formulated for flowering plants, with a slightly higher phosphorus content to encourage blooming (such as 10-20-10)
- Liquid fertilizers are easier to control and less likely to cause fertilizer burn
- Always apply fertilizer to moist soil to prevent root burn
- Flush the soil thoroughly with water every few months to prevent salt buildup
Anthuriums are light feeders and sensitive to over-fertilization, which can cause leaf burn, brown leaf tips, or salt buildup in the soil. Signs of under-fertilization include smaller leaves, fewer flowers, and overall slower growth, though these symptoms can also indicate other issues like insufficient light.
If your Anthurium has been in the same pot for several years without repotting, it may benefit from a slightly more frequent fertilizing schedule, as nutrients in the soil become depleted over time.
Encouraging Blooms
One of the most rewarding aspects of growing Anthuriums is their ability to produce colorful blooms throughout the year. To encourage abundant flowering, focus on these key factors:
Light Requirements:
- Bright, indirect light is crucial for flowering
- Insufficient light is the most common reason for lack of blooms
- East or north-facing windows typically provide ideal light conditions
- If natural light is limited, consider supplemental grow lights
Proper Nutrition:
- Use a fertilizer with higher phosphorus content (the middle number in the NPK ratio)
- Apply fertilizer regularly but at a diluted strength
- Specialized bloom-boosting fertilizers can be used occasionally
- Avoid over-fertilizing, which can inhibit flowering
Temperature and Humidity:
- Maintain temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C)
- Keep humidity levels above 60% if possible
- Stable conditions without fluctuations promote better flowering
- Avoid placing near drafts, air conditioners, or heating vents
Watering Practices:
- Consistent moisture without overwatering
- Allow the top 1-2 inches of soil to dry between waterings
- Avoid stressing the plant with extreme dry periods
- Use room temperature water to prevent shock
Seasonal Considerations:
- Anthuriums can bloom year-round but may have natural flowering cycles
- Slightly reduced watering and fertilizing in winter can trigger more prolific spring blooming
- Increased light exposure in spring often initiates a flush of new flowers
- Each bloom can last 2-3 months before gradually fading to green
Additional Tips:
- Remove spent blooms by cutting the stem at the base to encourage new flower production
- Ensure the plant isn't root-bound, as extremely cramped roots can reduce flowering
- Avoid relocating the plant frequently, as Anthuriums prefer to remain in one spot
- Clean the leaves occasionally to remove dust and allow maximum light absorption
With proper care, a healthy Anthurium can produce new blooms every few months. Be patient if your plant isn't flowering immediately after purchase or repotting, as it may need time to adjust to its new environment before directing energy toward flower production.
Propagation
Anthuriums can be propagated through several methods, with division being the most reliable for home gardeners:
Division Propagation:
- The best time to divide an Anthurium is during repotting in spring
- Remove the plant from its pot and gently shake off excess soil
- Look for natural divisions in the root ball where multiple stems or growth points have formed
- Using clean, sharp scissors or a knife, carefully separate the clumps, ensuring each division has several leaves and a good portion of the root system
- Plant each division in its own pot with fresh soil mix
- Water thoroughly and place in bright, indirect light
- Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy during the establishment period
- Provide extra humidity if possible during the recovery period
Stem Cutting Propagation:
- Select a healthy stem with at least two nodes (bumps on the stem where leaves emerge)
- Using clean, sharp scissors, cut the stem just below a node
- Remove any leaves from the bottom node, leaving at least one leaf at the top
- Place the cutting in a container with water, ensuring the bottom node is submerged
- Change the water every few days to prevent bacteria growth
- Once roots are 1-2 inches long (typically 3-6 weeks), transfer to soil
- Keep soil consistently moist for the first few weeks after transplanting
Seed Propagation: Seed propagation is rarely practiced by home gardeners due to the extremely slow growth rate, specialized conditions required, and difficulty obtaining fresh, viable seeds. Commercial growers typically handle seed propagation of Anthuriums.
Important Propagation Tips:
- Use clean tools to prevent disease transmission
- Provide extra humidity for newly propagated plants
- Be patient—Anthuriums can take time to establish after propagation
- Don't expect immediate flowering from newly propagated plants
- Avoid fertilizing for at least a month after propagation
Division is the most accessible and reliable method for home gardeners to propagate Anthuriums. While the process can be somewhat stressful for the plant, with proper care, both the parent plant and divisions will recover and continue to grow. Expect new plants to take 1-2 years before reaching flowering size.
Common Problems
While Anthuriums are generally resilient, they can experience several common issues:
Brown Leaf Tips and Edges:
- Cause: Low humidity, underwatering, or fertilizer buildup
- Solution: Increase humidity, adjust watering schedule, and flush soil occasionally to remove mineral buildup
Yellowing Leaves:
- Cause: Overwatering is the most common cause, though normal aging of older leaves also produces yellowing
- Solution: Reduce watering frequency, ensure proper drainage, and remove only completely yellow leaves
Flowers Turning Green:
- Cause: Natural aging process of the spathe
- Solution: This is normal—remove spent flowers by cutting at the base to encourage new blooms
Few or No Flowers:
- Cause: Insufficient light, improper fertilization, or temperature stress
- Solution: Increase light exposure, use a bloom-boosting fertilizer, and maintain optimal temperature range
Curling Leaves:
- Cause: Underwatering, low humidity, or pest infestation
- Solution: Check soil moisture, increase humidity, and inspect for pests, particularly spider mites
Pests:
- Spider Mites: Tiny pests that cause stippling on leaves and fine webbing, particularly in dry conditions
- Mealybugs: White, cotton-like clusters in leaf joints and on stems
- Scale: Brown bumps on stems and leaves that don't scrape off easily
- Aphids: Small insects that cluster on new growth and flower stems
- Solution: Increase humidity (for spider mites), wipe leaves with insecticidal soap or neem oil, isolate affected plants
Root Rot:
- Cause: Overwatering, poor drainage, or compacted soil
- Symptoms: Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, mushy stems, foul smell
- Solution: Reduce watering, ensure proper drainage, and in severe cases, unpot the plant, trim affected roots, and repot in fresh soil
Leaf Spots:
- Cause: Fungal or bacterial infection, often from water on leaves in cool conditions
- Solution: Avoid wetting leaves, improve air circulation, remove affected leaves, and treat with appropriate fungicide if necessary
Most Anthurium problems can be prevented with proper care focused on appropriate light, consistent moisture without overwatering, adequate humidity, and good air circulation. Regular inspection helps catch issues early when they're easier to address.
Popular Varieties
The Anthurium genus includes hundreds of species, with Anthurium andraeanum hybrids being the most commonly available as houseplants. These hybrids come in a variety of colors and forms:
By Spathe Color:
Red Varieties:
- 'Fire': Bright red spathe with contrasting yellow spadix
- 'Dakota': Deep crimson-red with glossy texture
- 'Success Red': Vibrant red with excellent keeping quality
- 'Tropical': Classic red with heart-shaped spathe
Pink Varieties:
- 'Livium': Soft pink with a hint of salmon
- 'Cheers': Bright pink with slightly wavy edges
- 'Pandola': Deep pink with a velvety appearance
- 'Princess Amalia Elegance': Soft pink with a large, round spathe
White Varieties:
- 'White Champion': Pure white spathe with straight spadix
- 'Acropolis': Creamy white with green tinges
- 'Angel': Bright white with excellent contrast against dark foliage
- 'Sierra White': Pristine white with long-lasting blooms
Purple/Lavender Varieties:
- 'Purple Plum': Deep purple with a glossy finish
- 'Lavender Lady': Soft lavender with pink undertones
- 'Violet Love': Rich purple with a velvety texture
- 'Amethyst': Lavender-purple with a distinctive shape
Unusual Colors:
- 'Pistache': Lime green spathe
- 'Orange Love': Bright orange to coral
- 'Fantasia': Multi-colored or speckled patterns
- 'Black Queen': Very dark burgundy, almost black
By Leaf Type:
Standard Leaf Anthuriums:
- Heart-shaped, glossy green leaves
- Most common type available commercially
- Typically Anthurium andraeanum hybrids
Foliage Anthuriums:
- Grown primarily for their decorative leaves rather than flowers
- Examples include:
- Anthurium crystallinum: Velvety leaves with prominent white veins
- Anthurium clarinervium: Heart-shaped leaves with striking white veins
- Anthurium magnificum: Large, deeply veined leaves with a velvety texture
- Anthurium warocqueanum: Narrow, elongated leaves with dramatic veining
Specialty Anthuriums:
- Bird's Nest Anthuriums: Compact growth habit with leaves forming a nest-like shape
- Climbing Anthuriums: Vining growth habit, often with smaller leaves
- Finger-Leaf Anthuriums: Deeply divided, finger-like leaf segments
While the flowering varieties (Anthurium andraeanum hybrids) are most common in the houseplant trade, foliage Anthuriums have gained popularity among collectors for their striking leaf patterns and textures. Both types share similar care requirements, though foliage varieties may prefer slightly lower light levels than their flowering counterparts.
With their glossy leaves, long-lasting blooms, and tropical appearance, Anthuriums make excellent houseplants for those who can provide the humidity and light they require. Whether grown for their colorful spathes or dramatic foliage, these plants bring a touch of the tropics to any indoor space.