Calathea

Overview

Calathea plants, often called Prayer Plants (though this name more specifically refers to their cousin, Maranta), are renowned for their stunning, painterly foliage and fascinating daily leaf movements. Native to the tropical Americas, particularly the Brazilian rainforests, these plants belong to the Marantaceae family and include numerous species and cultivars, each with distinctive leaf patterns and colors.

What makes Calatheas particularly special is their nyctinasty—the daily movement of their leaves. During the day, the leaves open flat to maximize light absorption, while at night, they fold upward like hands in prayer. This movement is controlled by a small joint between the leaf and stem, responding to changes in light and humidity.

The foliage of Calatheas is their main attraction, featuring intricate patterns of greens, reds, purples, silvers, and creams. The undersides of the leaves often display contrasting colors, adding to their ornamental value. Leaf shapes vary by species, from lance-shaped to rounded, oval, or oblong, but all share the characteristic bold patterning that makes them popular houseplants.

While Calatheas have a reputation for being somewhat demanding in their care requirements, particularly regarding humidity and water quality, their extraordinary beauty makes them worth the extra attention. With proper care, these tropical beauties can thrive indoors, bringing a touch of rainforest elegance to your home with their ever-changing display as they move throughout the day.

Care Guide

Light Requirements

Calatheas thrive in conditions that mimic their natural habitat on the forest floor, where they receive dappled light filtered through the canopy:

• Medium to bright indirect light: Ideal for maintaining vibrant leaf patterns and healthy growth
• Morning sun: Can tolerate gentle morning sun from an east-facing window
• Filtered light: Thrives in light filtered through sheer curtains or nearby larger plants
• Direct sunlight: Avoid as it will scorch the delicate leaves and fade their patterns
• Low light: Can survive but growth will slow and patterns may become less distinct

For optimal growth, place your Calathea near an east-facing window where it will receive gentle morning sun, or a few feet away from a south or west-facing window where direct sunlight won't reach the leaves. North-facing windows can also work well if they provide bright ambient light.

The intensity of leaf coloration and patterns is directly related to light levels—too little light will cause patterns to fade, while too much can bleach the colors. If you notice the distinctive leaf movements diminishing, it may indicate insufficient light contrast between day and night.

Rotate your plant a quarter turn weekly to ensure even growth, as Calatheas will naturally grow toward light sources. If your plant becomes leggy or the new leaves are smaller and less colorful than older ones, it likely needs more light.

Watering

Proper watering is crucial for Calatheas, as they are particularly sensitive to both water quality and consistency:

Watering Schedule:

• Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy
• Water when the top inch of soil begins to dry out
• Typically this means watering once every 5-7 days, depending on your home's conditions
• Increase frequency during warmer months and growth periods
• Slightly reduce in winter, but never allow soil to dry out completely

Water Quality:

• Calatheas are extremely sensitive to chemicals in tap water
• Use distilled water, filtered water, or collected rainwater
• If using tap water, allow it to sit out overnight to dechlorinate
• Room temperature water is essential—cold water can shock the roots

Watering Technique:

• Water thoroughly until it flows from the drainage holes
• Empty the saucer to prevent the plant from sitting in water
• Water the soil directly, avoiding the leaves when possible
• Bottom watering can be effective—place the pot in a basin of water for 20-30 minutes

Calatheas communicate their watering needs clearly through their leaves. Curling leaves often indicate underwatering or low humidity, while yellowing leaves can signal overwatering. Crispy brown edges typically suggest either underwatering or sensitivity to chemicals in tap water.

Maintaining consistent soil moisture is more important than following a strict schedule. Check your plant regularly and adjust based on environmental conditions and the plant's response.

Soil

Calatheas require a specific soil composition that balances moisture retention with adequate drainage:

Ideal Soil Mix:

• 1 part standard potting soil
• 1 part peat moss or coco coir (for moisture retention)
• 1 part perlite or pumice (for drainage)
• Optional: Add a small amount of orchid bark for additional aeration

This combination creates a light, airy mix that holds moisture without becoming waterlogged. The slightly acidic nature of peat moss also suits Calatheas, which prefer a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5.

Container Considerations:

• Always use pots with drainage holes
• Plastic or glazed ceramic pots retain moisture better than terracotta
• Choose a pot that's only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one when repotting
• Too large a pot can hold excess moisture and lead to root rot

Repot your Calathea every 1-2 years in spring, or when it becomes root-bound. These plants prefer to be slightly root-bound rather than having too much space. When repotting, handle the roots gently as they are delicate and easily damaged.

Temperature & Humidity

As tropical plants, Calatheas have specific temperature and humidity requirements that reflect their rainforest origins:

Temperature:

• Ideal range: 65-80°F (18-27°C)
• Minimum temperature: 60°F (15°C)
• Avoid temperatures below 55°F (13°C), which can cause permanent damage
• Keep away from cold drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents

Humidity:

• Requires high humidity (50-60% minimum)
• Will struggle in dry environments below 40% humidity
• Increase humidity through these methods:
  • Use a humidifier near the plant (most effective method)
  • Place on a humidity tray (pebble tray with water)
  • Group with other plants to create a microclimate
  • Mist leaves occasionally, though this provides only temporary relief

Humidity is particularly crucial for Calatheas. In low humidity, leaves will curl, develop brown edges and tips, and the plant's natural leaf movements may become restricted. If you notice these signs, take immediate steps to increase humidity around your plant.

Temperature stability is also important. Sudden fluctuations can stress the plant, causing leaf drop or curling. During winter, be especially mindful of keeping Calatheas away from cold windows and drafty areas.

Fertilizing

Calatheas benefit from regular but gentle fertilization during their growing season:

Fertilizing Schedule:

• Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength
• Fertilize once a month during spring and summer (active growth period)
• Reduce to once every 2-3 months in fall
• Do not fertilize in winter when growth naturally slows

Fertilizing Tips:

• Use a balanced formula (such as 10-10-10)
• Organic fertilizers like fish emulsion or worm castings can be gentler alternatives
• Always apply fertilizer to moist soil to prevent root burn
• Flush the soil thoroughly with distilled water every few months to prevent salt buildup

Calatheas are sensitive to over-fertilization, which can cause leaf burn, brown spots, or crispy edges. Signs of under-fertilization include pale new growth and smaller leaves, though these symptoms can also indicate other issues like insufficient light.

During winter or periods of slower growth, reduce fertilizing frequency significantly or stop altogether. Resume regular fertilizing when you notice new growth in spring.

Propagation

Calatheas are typically propagated through division rather than stem or leaf cuttings:

Division Propagation:

1. The best time to divide Calatheas is during repotting in spring
2. Remove the plant from its pot and gently shake off excess soil
3. Identify natural divisions in the root ball or separate sections with at least 2-3 stems and healthy roots
4. Use clean, sharp scissors or a knife to separate the sections if they don't pull apart easily
5. Plant each division in its own pot with fresh soil mix
6. Water thoroughly and place in a warm location with high humidity and indirect light
7. Keep soil consistently moist and maintain high humidity during the establishment period
8. Expect some initial shock—new growth indicates successful establishment

Important Propagation Tips:

• Ensure each division has adequate roots and several healthy leaves
• Use sterilized tools to prevent disease transmission
• Provide extra humidity for newly divided plants using a clear plastic bag or dome
• Be patient—divided plants may take several weeks to show new growth
• Avoid fertilizing newly divided plants for at least a month

Unlike some houseplants, Calatheas cannot be propagated from leaf cuttings or stem cuttings. The division method is the only reliable way to create new plants. While division is relatively straightforward, Calatheas can be sensitive to the process, so handle them gently and provide optimal conditions afterward to minimize stress.

Common Problems

While Calatheas are stunning plants, they can experience several common issues:

Curling Leaves:

• Cause: Underwatering, low humidity, or temperature stress
• Solution: Increase watering frequency, raise humidity levels, and ensure stable temperatures away from drafts and heat sources

Brown Leaf Edges:

• Cause: Low humidity, tap water sensitivity, or inconsistent watering
• Solution: Increase humidity, switch to distilled or filtered water, and maintain consistent soil moisture

Yellowing Leaves:

• Cause: Overwatering, poor drainage, or normal aging of older leaves
• Solution: Reduce watering frequency, ensure proper drainage, and remove only completely yellow leaves

Fading Leaf Patterns:

• Cause: Too much direct sunlight or insufficient light
• Solution: Adjust light conditions to provide bright, indirect light without direct sun exposure

Leaf Spots:

• Cause: Fungal or bacterial infection, often from water on leaves in cool conditions
• Solution: Avoid wetting leaves, improve air circulation, and treat with appropriate fungicide if necessary

Pests:

• Spider Mites: Tiny pests that cause stippling on leaves and fine webbing, particularly in dry conditions
• Mealybugs: White, cotton-like insects that cluster in leaf joints
• Scale: Small brown bumps on stems and leaf undersides
• Solution: Increase humidity (for spider mites), wipe leaves with insecticidal soap or neem oil, isolate affected plants

Drooping or Wilting:

• Cause: Underwatering, overwatering, or temperature extremes
• Solution: Check soil moisture and adjust watering accordingly; ensure appropriate temperature range

Reduced Leaf Movement:

• Cause: Insufficient light contrast between day and night, low humidity, or stress
• Solution: Ensure clear light/dark cycles, increase humidity, and address any other stress factors

Most Calathea problems can be resolved by adjusting care routines to better match their tropical preferences, particularly regarding humidity, water quality, and consistent soil moisture. Regular inspection helps catch issues early when they're easier to address.

Popular Varieties

The Calathea genus includes numerous stunning varieties, each with distinctive leaf patterns and colors:

Calathea orbifolia

• Large, round leaves with bold silver and green striping
• One of the larger Calathea varieties
• Slightly more forgiving than some other varieties
• Dramatic presence with dinner-plate sized leaves when mature

Calathea makoyana (Peacock Plant)

• Oval leaves with a pattern resembling peacock feathers
• Light green background with dark green ovals and margins
• Purple undersides to the leaves
• Medium-sized variety, typically reaching 2 feet tall

Calathea roseopicta 'Medallion'

• Round leaves with a medallion-like pattern
• Dark green leaves with feathered light green to silver pattern
• Bright pink to red undersides
• Compact growth habit, ideal for tabletops

Calathea lancifolia (Rattlesnake Plant)

• Long, narrow, wavy-edged leaves
• Dark green spots on a light green background
• Purple undersides
• More drought-tolerant than many other Calatheas
• Upright growth habit

Calathea zebrina (Zebra Plant)

• Large, velvety leaves with bold zebra-like striping
• Dark green stripes on light green background
• One of the more dramatic varieties
• Can grow quite large in ideal conditions

Calathea ornata (Pinstripe Calathea)

• Glossy dark green leaves with thin pink or white pinstripes
• Purple undersides
• Tends to be one of the more challenging varieties
• Striking contrast between dark leaves and bright stripes

Calathea warscewiczii (Velvet Calathea)

• Velvety dark green leaves with lighter green feathered pattern
• Distinctive fuzzy texture to the leaves
• Purple undersides
• Requires higher humidity than some other varieties

Calathea crocata (Eternal Flame)

• One of the few Calatheas grown primarily for flowers
• Produces orange flower bracts that resemble flames
• Dark green, slightly textured leaves
• More challenging to bring to bloom indoors

Calathea rufibarba (Furry Feather)

• Narrow, lance-shaped leaves with wavy edges
• Unique velvety texture on both sides of the leaves
• Purple undersides
• More tolerant of lower humidity than some varieties

Many plants formerly classified as Calathea have recently been reclassified into the genus Goeppertia, though they are still commonly sold under the Calathea name. Regardless of their scientific classification, all these plants share similar care requirements and distinctive beauty.

With their incredible diversity of patterns, colors, and leaf shapes, Calatheas offer something for every plant enthusiast. While they may require more specific care than some houseplants, their extraordinary beauty and fascinating leaf movements make them well worth the extra attention for those willing to meet their needs.