Haworthia

Haworthia spp.

Haworthia

Quick Facts

Light

Bright Indirect to Partial Sun

Water

Low (Allow to dry between waterings)

Difficulty

Easy

Growth Rate

Slow

Toxicity

Non-Toxic to Pets and Humans

Overview

Haworthia is a diverse genus of small succulent plants native to Southern Africa, primarily South Africa and Namibia. These charming, compact succulents have gained immense popularity among plant enthusiasts for their architectural form, interesting textures, and remarkable ease of care, making them perfect for both beginners and experienced collectors.

Most Haworthia species form rosettes of fleshy, triangular leaves that grow in a spiral pattern from a central point. What makes these plants particularly distinctive is the wide variety of leaf characteristics found across different species—from smooth and glossy to rough and textured, from solid green to striped or spotted, and from opaque to partially transparent with "window panes" that allow light to penetrate deep into the leaf tissue.

The most widely recognized Haworthia is H. attenuata (Zebra Haworthia), with its distinctive white tubercles (bumps) arranged in horizontal bands across dark green leaves, creating a striking zebra-like pattern. Another popular species is H. cooperi, known for its translucent leaf tips that appear like tiny "windows," an adaptation that allows light to reach the inner portions of the leaf even when the plant is partially buried in its natural habitat.

Haworthias typically remain small, with most species growing only 3-5 inches in diameter, making them ideal for windowsills, desks, and small spaces. They occasionally produce thin, wiry flower stalks with small, tubular white or off-white flowers, though they're primarily grown for their attractive foliage rather than their blooms.

Unlike many other succulents, Haworthias prefer bright indirect light rather than full, direct sun, making them more adaptable to indoor conditions than many of their sun-loving relatives. They're also more tolerant of irregular watering and lower light conditions than many other succulents, which contributes to their reputation as excellent low-maintenance houseplants.

As non-toxic plants safe for pets and humans, Haworthias make excellent choices for households with children and animals. Their compact size, minimal care requirements, and year-round ornamental value have made them staples in succulent collections and popular choices for those just beginning their plant parenthood journey.

Care Guide

Light Requirements

Haworthias have somewhat different light preferences than many other succulents:

  • Bright indirect light: Ideal for most Haworthia species
  • Partial sun: Can tolerate some direct morning sun, especially in cooler climates
  • Filtered light: Thrives in light filtered through a sheer curtain
  • Full direct sun: Avoid as it can scorch leaves, particularly for window-leaved varieties
  • Low light: Can survive in lower light than many succulents, though growth will slow

For optimal growth and coloration, place your Haworthia near an east or north-facing window where it will receive bright, filtered light throughout the day. If placed near a south or west-facing window, ensure the plant is positioned several feet away from the window or protected by a sheer curtain to filter the intense direct sunlight.

Unlike many other succulents that require full sun, Haworthias evolved to grow in the shade of rocks or larger plants in their native habitat. This makes them particularly well-suited to indoor conditions where direct sunlight is limited.

The light requirements of Haworthia can affect their appearance. Insufficient light causes plants to etiolate (stretch), losing their compact rosette form. Too much direct sunlight can cause leaves to turn reddish-brown (sun stress) or develop bleached, yellow patches (sunburn). While some sun stress can create attractive coloration, actual sunburn damages the plant tissue permanently.

Watering

Proper watering is crucial for Haworthias, as they are susceptible to root rot if overwatered:

Watering Schedule:

  • Allow soil to dry completely between waterings
  • Typically water every 2-3 weeks, depending on your home's conditions
  • Reduce frequency significantly in winter when growth slows
  • Increase slightly during hot, dry periods when soil dries more quickly

Watering Technique:

  • Water thoroughly until it flows from the drainage holes
  • Empty the saucer to prevent the plant from sitting in water
  • Water the soil directly, avoiding wetting the leaves and crown
  • Use room temperature water to avoid shocking the roots

Seasonal Adjustments:

  • Spring/Summer: More frequent watering as the plant is actively growing
  • Fall/Winter: Reduce watering significantly as the plant enters dormancy
  • Always adjust based on environmental conditions rather than a strict calendar

Haworthias communicate their watering needs through their leaves. Soft, wrinkled leaves often indicate underwatering, while translucent, mushy leaves suggest overwatering. These plants store water in their fleshy leaves, allowing them to withstand occasional drought.

These succulents are far more tolerant of underwatering than overwatering. When in doubt, it's better to wait another week before watering. During winter dormancy, some Haworthias can go a month or more without water, depending on the temperature and humidity of your home.

Soil

Haworthias require well-draining soil to prevent root rot:

Ideal Soil Mix:

  • 2 parts cactus/succulent potting mix
  • 1 part perlite, pumice, or coarse sand
  • Optional: Add a small handful of horticultural charcoal to keep the soil fresh

This combination creates a gritty, fast-draining mix that prevents water from pooling around the roots. The addition of perlite or pumice helps create air pockets in the soil, promoting healthy root development and preventing compaction.

Container Considerations:

  • Always use pots with drainage holes
  • Terracotta pots are ideal as they wick away excess moisture
  • Small, shallow pots work well as Haworthias have relatively small root systems
  • Consider the mature size when selecting a container—most Haworthias stay relatively compact

Repot your Haworthia every 2-3 years, or when it has clearly outgrown its container. The best time to repot is in spring during the active growing season. When repotting, handle the plant gently to avoid damaging the roots and position it at the same depth it was previously growing.

These plants actually prefer to be somewhat root-bound, so don't rush to repot them into much larger containers. When repotting, choose a pot that's only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one.

Temperature & Humidity

Haworthias are adaptable to average indoor conditions:

Temperature:

  • Ideal range: 65-80°F (18-27°C)
  • Minimum temperature: 50°F (10°C)
  • Will suffer damage below 40°F (4°C)
  • Can tolerate higher temperatures if protected from intense sun
  • Avoid sudden temperature fluctuations

Humidity:

  • Tolerates average to dry indoor humidity (30-50%)
  • Does not require high humidity
  • Avoid very humid environments, which can promote fungal issues
  • Good air circulation is beneficial

One of the appealing aspects of Haworthias is their adaptability to normal household conditions. Unlike many tropical houseplants, they don't require high humidity, making them particularly well-suited to modern homes and offices with dry air from heating and cooling systems.

Temperature stability is important for Haworthias. During winter, be especially mindful of keeping them away from cold windows and drafts. Similarly, avoid placing them near heating vents, which can create excessively hot, dry conditions that stress these plants.

Fertilizing

Haworthias have minimal fertilizer requirements:

Fertilizing Schedule:

  • Apply a diluted succulent or cactus fertilizer at quarter to half strength
  • Fertilize only 2-3 times per year during spring and summer (active growth period)
  • Do not fertilize in fall and winter when growth naturally slows
  • Resume fertilizing in spring when new growth appears

Fertilizing Tips:

  • Use a balanced formula (such as 10-10-10) or one specifically formulated for succulents
  • Liquid fertilizers are easier to control and less likely to cause fertilizer burn
  • Always apply fertilizer to moist soil to prevent root burn
  • Flush the soil thoroughly with water every few months to prevent salt buildup

Haworthias are light feeders and can be sensitive to over-fertilization, which can cause leaf burn, brown leaf tips, or salt buildup in the soil. Signs of over-fertilization include brown or black spots on leaves, especially near the edges, and a white crust on the soil surface.

Given their slow growth rate and minimal nutritional needs, Haworthias can thrive with very little supplemental feeding. When in doubt, it's better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize these sensitive plants.

Propagation

Haworthias can be propagated through offsets (pups), leaf cuttings, or occasionally by seed:

Offset Propagation:

  1. Offsets are the small plants that develop at the base of the mother plant
  2. Wait until offsets are at least 1 inch in diameter with their own roots
  3. During repotting, gently separate the offsets from the mother plant
  4. If the offset is firmly attached, use a clean, sharp knife to cut it away, ensuring some roots remain attached
  5. Allow the cut to callus for 1-2 days
  6. Plant the offset in well-draining succulent soil
  7. Wait about a week before watering to allow any wounds to heal completely
  8. Keep in bright, indirect light until established

Leaf Propagation:

  1. Select a healthy, mature leaf
  2. Gently twist the leaf from the stem, ensuring you get a clean separation
  3. Allow the leaf to callus for 3-7 days
  4. Place the callused end on well-draining succulent soil
  5. Mist occasionally to prevent complete drying out
  6. Keep in bright, indirect light
  7. Roots and a tiny new plant may develop in 2-8 weeks, though success rates are lower than with offsets
  8. Once the new plant is established with its own roots, the mother leaf will eventually wither

Seed Propagation: Seed propagation is rarely practiced by home gardeners due to the extremely slow growth rate and specialized conditions required. Commercial growers typically handle seed propagation of Haworthias.

Important Propagation Tips:

  • The best time to propagate is during spring or summer when growth is most active
  • Avoid direct sunlight for new propagations
  • Keep soil on the drier side to prevent rot
  • Be patient—Haworthias grow slowly, and new plants may take months to show significant growth
  • Offset propagation has the highest success rate and produces mature plants more quickly than leaf propagation

Propagation through offsets is the most reliable method for Haworthias and allows you to maintain the exact characteristics of the parent plant. This is particularly important for cultivars with specific patterns or coloration.

Common Problems

While Haworthias are generally resilient, they can experience several common issues:

Wrinkled, Shriveled Leaves:

  • Cause: Underwatering is the most common cause
  • Solution: Water thoroughly and adjust watering schedule

Soft, Mushy Leaves:

  • Cause: Overwatering leading to rot
  • Solution: Reduce watering frequency, ensure proper drainage, and in severe cases, unpot the plant, trim affected roots, and repot in fresh, dry soil

Brown or Black Spots:

  • Cause: Sunburn, physical damage, or fungal infection
  • Solution: Move to a location with less direct sun, improve air circulation, and avoid getting water on leaves

Reddish-Brown Coloration:

  • Cause: Sun stress, temperature extremes, or nutrient issues
  • Solution: Adjust light exposure if the coloration is unwanted (though some find it attractive)

Elongated, Stretched Growth:

  • Cause: Insufficient light causing the plant to stretch toward light sources
  • Solution: Move to a brighter location (still avoiding harsh direct sun)

Pests:

  • Mealybugs: White, cotton-like clusters in leaf joints and on stems
  • Scale: Small brown bumps on leaves that don't scrape off easily
  • Spider Mites: Tiny pests that cause stippling on leaves and fine webbing
  • Solution: Isolate affected plants, treat with insecticidal soap or 70% isopropyl alcohol applied with a cotton swab

Root Rot:

  • Cause: Overwatering, poor drainage, or compacted soil
  • Symptoms: Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, mushy stems, foul smell
  • Solution: Reduce watering, ensure proper drainage, and in severe cases, unpot the plant, trim affected roots, and repot in fresh soil

Slow or No Growth:

  • Cause: Normal for Haworthias, which are extremely slow-growing
  • Solution: No action needed unless accompanied by other symptoms of distress

Most Haworthia problems can be prevented with proper care focused on appropriate light, careful watering, and well-draining soil. Regular inspection helps catch issues early when they're easier to address.

Popular Varieties

The Haworthia genus includes numerous species and varieties with diverse appearances. Here are some of the most popular types for indoor cultivation:

Haworthia attenuata (Zebra Haworthia)

  • Distinctive white tubercles (bumps) arranged in horizontal bands
  • Dark green leaves forming a rosette
  • One of the most common and recognizable Haworthias
  • Relatively easy to grow
  • Popular cultivar 'Zebra Plant' is widely available

Haworthia fasciata (Zebra Plant)

  • Similar to H. attenuata but with smoother inner leaf faces
  • White bands only on the outside of leaves
  • Forms tight rosettes
  • More uncommon than H. attenuata despite the popular name
  • Often confused with H. attenuata in cultivation

Haworthia cooperi

  • Translucent "window" leaf tips
  • Rounded, plump leaves
  • Compact growth habit
  • Several varieties with different levels of transparency
  • Popular varieties include var. truncata and var. obtusa

Haworthia cymbiformis (Cathedral Window Haworthia)

  • Boat-shaped, translucent leaves
  • Light green coloration
  • Larger, more open rosettes than some species
  • Window-like leaf tips allow light to penetrate
  • Produces offsets readily

Haworthia retusa (Star Cactus)

  • Triangular leaves with translucent tips
  • Forms a flat, star-shaped rosette
  • Distinctive geometric appearance
  • Window-like leaf tips
  • Slow-growing but distinctive

Haworthia limifolia (Fairies Washboard)

  • Distinctive horizontal ridges on leaves
  • Darker green coloration
  • No translucent windows
  • Textured appearance
  • More drought-tolerant than some varieties

Haworthia truncata (Horse's Teeth)

  • Unusual squared-off leaf ends that appear like they've been cut
  • Grows in rows rather than rosettes
  • Highly distinctive appearance
  • Window panels on the flat leaf ends
  • Slow-growing collector's item

Haworthia reinwardtii

  • Columnar growth rather than rosette form
  • Leaves arranged in vertical columns
  • Dark green with white tubercles
  • More upright growth habit
  • Distinctive architectural appearance

Haworthia mirabilis

  • Varied appearance depending on variety
  • Often has retracted leaf tips creating a "windowed" effect
  • Some varieties develop reddish coloration in bright light
  • Compact rosette form
  • Popular among collectors

Haworthia bayeri

  • Triangular, retracted leaf tips
  • Distinctive windowed appearance
  • Often develops reddish tones in bright light
  • Compact growth habit
  • Sought after by collectors

These diverse Haworthia varieties offer something for every plant enthusiast, from beginners to advanced collectors. While they share similar care requirements, the different leaf forms, textures, and patterns create distinctly different visual effects, allowing for creative combinations in plantings and displays.

With their compact size, architectural form, and minimal care requirements, Haworthias make excellent houseplants for both beginning and experienced plant enthusiasts. Their ability to thrive in bright indirect light rather than full sun makes them particularly well-suited to indoor conditions, bringing a touch of succulent beauty to any home or office.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Haworthia turning brown or reddish?

Haworthias can develop reddish-brown coloration due to several factors. The most common cause is sun stress—when these plants receive more light than they're accustomed to, they produce protective pigments that create a reddish or brownish hue. This is not harmful and is often considered attractive. Other causes include temperature extremes (especially cold), underwatering, or nutrient deficiencies. If the discoloration is accompanied by soft, mushy tissue, this indicates sunburn rather than normal sun stress. To address unwanted color changes, gradually adjust light exposure, maintain proper watering (allowing soil to dry between waterings), and ensure temperatures remain between 65-80°F (18-27°C). Some varieties naturally show more coloration than others.

Why are my Haworthia's leaves wrinkling?

Wrinkled leaves on Haworthia plants typically indicate underwatering. These succulents store water in their fleshy leaves, which become soft and wrinkled when water reserves are depleted. To remedy this, give your plant a thorough soaking, allowing water to run through the drainage holes, then return to a normal watering schedule (typically every 2-3 weeks, allowing soil to dry completely between waterings). If leaves remain wrinkled after watering, check for root issues—compacted soil or root damage can prevent proper water uptake. Occasionally, overwatering can also cause wrinkled leaves if it leads to root rot. Ensure your plant has well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes. With proper watering, healthy plants should regain their firm, plump appearance within a few days.

How do I know when to repot my Haworthia?

Haworthias typically need repotting every 2-3 years. Signs that repotting is needed include roots growing through drainage holes, plant becoming top-heavy or unstable, soil breaking down and not draining properly, or the plant outgrowing its container (though this happens slowly with Haworthias). These slow-growing succulents actually prefer being somewhat root-bound, so don't rush to repot them. When repotting, choose a container only 1-2 inches larger than the current pot with good drainage. Use fresh succulent/cactus soil, and repot during the growing season (spring or summer). After repotting, wait about a week before watering to allow any damaged roots to heal, and keep the plant in indirect light for a few weeks as it adjusts to its new home.